Reroof for Tri Level

I am getting ready to reroof my trilevel 4/12 roof that is 37 sq. I have three questions/concerns.

  1. I currently have 6 box/mushroom vents which doesn’t seem like enough for about 3000sq ft. of attic space. should I add more box vents, go with box vents and ridge vent or just close up the box vents and put in a ridge? If I should close them up, what is the best way to do this?
  2. I have a 12" chimney pipe coming out of the single story with a metal ‘boot’ providing flashing. Do I need to try to preserve this boot or is there a better product to seal it?
  3. I live in central Ohio, do I need to run ice and water guard all around the perimeter of the roof? If so, do I need to pull the gutters off and run it in behind or just run it under the drip edge? I have never had any ice damming problems with my roof? Thanks for your help!

Well it sounds like your doing it DYI style you need 13 exhaust vents and 16 4x12 soffit vents to start. Ice and water sheild must be 24 inches inside the interior wall. Put your drip edge on t-style then inbetween the first and second bump place the ice and water and go up untill you pass the 24 inchs on the inside wall.there is an angle so if there is a 1 foot overhand put 2 rows of i&w. Replace everything on the roof, the power pole use geo or solar seal over the top of that boot only. Run 15 pound or 30 felt. The 1 foot pipe is called a soil vent and you will need the flange for it. If you have a bathroom vent or kitchen vent make sure they exhaust thru the roof. Insulation is an r-49 value and thats about 15 3/4 inches. Follow the instructions from whatever shingles you buy from the website so you know what your doing. No less than 4 nails i like 6 per shingle and put them in the correct area or blow off’s will happen. If you have any other questions email me and i can let you know anything i have missed and help you out. have a great day!

There are lots of ways to deal with penetrations. Boots are one way. I would not try to preserve the old one, I would replace it.

We sell a product called ChemCurb. Usually it is used for a flat roof. That said, I think you stand a better chance putting a chemcurb down as they are pretty much fool proof.

If your going to do this yourself, I would use a higher quality underlayment such as Feltex or Triflex. I would also use BARR Flash and Patch instead of black jack.

You can get some of these products through us or you can go to Allied or ABC and pick them up. We don’t sell the underlayment.

He would be better off having a pro do the job before pouring rubber on his roof. My grashious.

I agree. Rubber would not be a good fix for this roof at all! the ChemCurb is just for the pipe.

In general a DAY roof is the most expensive type!