What Marshall is getting to about not using every nail hole is that if only every other one is driven, the ridge vent will start to lift & dip (dip on the driven nail, high spots on the missing nail).
Yes, the Snow Country will sit higher than the one you had installed however you are focusing on it NOW whereas I’ll bet if you had looked 1 month before even considering that you needed a new roof, about 20% or more of the houses in your neighborhood has a ridge vent but you didn’t see it. Over a short amount of time, it sorta blends into the background & you won’t notice it.
The caveat here is that none of have actually seen your roof before, so we don’t have any idea of what the profile or particulars are.
That said, the GAF ridge vents are all superior due to the increased volume in air flow.
Oh, & as to the shingle not going all the way to the edge & sitting back a bit, that’s part of the baffle design on the shingle - the shingle is supposed to sit back, i.e. the ridge vent pieces are about 2" wider total than a 3 Tab shingle (3T @ 12", ridge vent about 14" wide).
Thanks for all your feedback-- the installed product was definitely Snow Country (not Owens Corning… I saw the box), and yes of course, I intend to pay the roofer for replacing the Snow Country vent. I know that a picture is worth more than my verbiage, so I posted a few on flickr. I tried to get them onto this site, but despite reducing their scale it was “no go”. So I put 3 shots on my page at Flickr… just disregard all those shots of friends and family.
You can see them at:
Click on a photo, then click on the “All Sizes” button above the slightly enlarged picture, which will then give you an extreeme close-up.
Thanks-- I’d be curious to know if you think this looks normal.
A couple weeks ago did a new roof for a home owner who picked out all the roofing materials. The ridge he bought was the Owens Cornings roll. I told him I’m have my father look at it and see what he thought of it. My father looked at it and laughed.
I priced out shinglevent2 or whatever the 4ft plastic sections are and the home owner said they were too expensive, was about $2.40 something a foot.
He bought the Cobra roll and it turned out ok.
The rolled ridge vent seem to go on faster than the 4ft sections mainly due to the fact than you can coil nail it.
Got a home owner who wants my father and I to check out a rolled ridge vent product called Mongoose which is a product that he said he’s promoting. Guessing it’s like Cobra but will have to see.
…That’s what you meant to do (note: these are your original links posted correctly).
Yup, that’s what a good high volume ridge vent is supposed to look like.
Think of it like a high performance exhaust on a car or truck; more intake (continuous soffit vent like a Hardie product = a turbo & a high profile ridge vent = dual exhaust on headers}.
But, what’s done is done. The only thing I would suggest is that your roofer who changed it out did you a disservice if they didn’t tell you the swap out would limit the effectiveness of having a ridge vent. Maybe they didn’t know, maybe they were only concerned with completing the job to your basic satisfaction & moving on with life… hard to say as I don’t know your particulars or the roofer.
Only thing i see wrong in those pictures is the reusing of the old tatered counter flashing. The ridge vent looks good with either timbertex or there rasied elevation ridge. I have no clue why you are having this torn off but good luck with keep warranty. Different ridge vents flow different numbers. Hope you dont have a golden pledge or any warranty gaf carries because that will void soon sas you remove the snow country. I know golden pledge will lose warranty cant remember if there other ones do. Dont do much GAF.
Thanks RanchHand and GTP,
… and great job posting the pics of my roof-- thanks!
This Snow Country vent was installed over our family room. When the house was built in 1986, they installed the roof over this room incorrectly. Though there was a soffit vent in place, and an opening had been sawed into the ridge, the roofers simply nailed in cap shingles without making any provision for a ridge vent. Unbelieveable but true.
So I now have a bit of a dillema. I can keep the installation as it now is; I can ask the roofers to extend the ridge vent to the chimney, which i think would improve the appearance; or I can have them rip it out and put in a lower profile Cor-a-Vent style rideg vent, which wouldn’t be as effective as the Snow Country, but would be a big improvement over no vent at all.
By the way, after 21 years with no ridge vent, the roof was showing some signs of wear but was still in OK condition, except for a slight leak that developed last winter in the valley, where thre was a bit of ice damming. Turns out the valley wasn’t ice-shielded, so now that’s been rectified.
The main house is a different story. It has two decent sized gable vents, one has a thermo-controlled electric fan on it. I’m planning to plug up those vents, install Smart Vent near the soffits and have them put a ridge vent on it. Now I’m thinking Cor-a-Vent low profile, since the ridgeline of the main house is so prominent. I can’t believe I’m the only one who hates the look of Snow Country… are the other options that much worse?
As always, I read your feedback and appreciate the insights.
It should be a simple process to have the ridge vent extended all the way to the chimney; depending on how your attic space is set up, this is for aesthetics only & does not reflect in there actually being a cut in the roof deck.
@ The most, you don’t extend the ridge cut into the flashing & want to have a little bit of roof deck going past that as well; maybe 6" or so. The ridge vent is intalled over a solid deck & up to the chimney, then shingled, but NOT nailed into the metal flashing.
For these other sections, please take a photo further back / away from the house.
To post your photo link, upload to Flickr again, then put the URL on the reply ‘surrounded’ by (img) on the L & (/img) on the R, but exchange the ( ) with ].
They always need to end in jpg or gif extension.
So, after all this feedback, we decided to keep the Snow Country after all, and extend the partial ridge vent to the chimney. The roofers are intelligent enough not to nail through the lead flashing on the chimney. If I understand gtp’s comment, he objected to their reusing that flashing-- however, I can’t see the point of chipping out and reinstalling lead flashing into the chimney mortar. That would be involved and expensive, wouldn’t it, and the old flashing seems to be in OK condition.
Anyway, your comments convinced me that we should go with the better ventilating product, so we’ll stick with the rigid vent. I have to say, tho, that ED’s photos make his job look a bit neater, tho they don’t show a side view. When you look at our cap shingles from the side or from below, the way they set up next to each other creates a serrated edge effect that reveals a bit more of the black plastic of the vent… but I’m probably spending too much time looking at it (those pics were from our bedroom window, so the roof is more or less in our face).
Nailing into the chimney = idoit* maneuver.
I meant nailing into the flashing on the roof deck.
The chimney portion lays OVER… the roof deck part is in an “L” shape & the left side of my L goes UNDER the chimney portion. The bottom of the L is what goes on the roof deck. No nails in that area, please.
*Spelled this way on porpoise.
OK, now I get it (I think), RH. Your point is that the roofers should not nail through the flashing, just tuck it under the shingles, which should be carefully nailed to avoid piercing the flashing, right?
You draw such pretty pictures.
You should see me do finger paints. I really shine when there are little numbers on the page.
…I didn’t really have a lot of time to put together a good view on the turnback (or a proper description).
What that house actually has is step flashing type metal set in the chimney (or “chimley” as someone I know always calls it). If I get a chance, I’ll correct the drawing. Either way, the idea is the same… the parts set into the mortar of the chimney don’t get removed & they overlap the step flashing OR in the turnback metal, depending on how your joint is designed.