Roof Assessment/Estimate

In the process of getting a few proposals for this roof (396sq ft) and would appreciate any feedback. Recently had a roofing company do a bad install/replacement for another roof and we’re still cleaning up that mess, so we’re trying to not have a repeat of that.

Specifically, how is the overall condition of this roof, how badly does it need replaced? Full replacement necessary or just repair? We have water getting into the corner, which has now made its way down all three floors of our house. Had a hell of a time getting someone out here who was able to diagnose where it’s getting in. One guy recently suggested having a new drop put into the corner drain. Few other areas must be pretty bad as well since we’ve begun seeing water damage under other parts of the roof.

We received one proposal so far for a replacement. Any feedback on this cost/work estimate would be appreciated. Located in Delaware by the way.

Top Flat Roof Replacement ($7,800)
• Remove existing flat roof system
• Evaluate all decking and replace where necessary (Sheathing replacement will be $125.00 per sheet additional)
• Install ½ recovery board on complete roof using screw and plate pattern as per code
• Install .060 Mule-Hide EPDM roofing system to complete roof; all material to be adhered using Mule-Hide substrate adhesive
• All seams to have 6” lap with 6” seam tape
• All pipes, vents, and roof protrusions to be properly flashed
• Special Note: Remove wood as necessary around drain area to install a seamless piece of downspout to elbow of downspout leading down wall
• Install new drains (all to be properly flashed)
• Install new aluminum trim at roofs’ edges where necessary (All properly flashed)
• Includes new counterflashing on chimney that meets flat roof
• Clean all work areas of debris

Is this a residence or a business? If this is a business you have the availability of getting a NDL Warranty from a manufacturer and that is highly recommended as it requires a manufacturer inspection to get the warranty. You will pay more.

Depending on what the deck is and whether the building is climate controlled you may not want or be in code compliance with only a 1/2" cover board.

The drainage on this looks like it might be a round corner drain. Actually replacing the drain with a real one is probably not in their scope, as that would be a complete pain in the ass. Depending on what is under there and how the existing drain is done it may be able to be flashed and re-used or it may be better to install a new roof drain on the deck and run a line out the wall, or cut in a scupper in the wall. Hard to say, but aluminum downspouts should not be used to attach to a drain.

Aluminum trim means residential drip edge, which is too thin and does not hold up to wind uplift on flat roofs. 24 ga should be the minimum for any flat roof edge metal, and if this is a commercial building that edge metal would not meet building code.

The roof has already been repaired a bunch, replacement is not out of line here.

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It’s a residence. And yes it’s a round corner drain. I thought I had a picture of it on my phone but can’t seem to find it. We were a little surprised by the price of this quote. Hopefully we’ll have a couple more next week.

Definitely quite a few repairs up there, most by the previous owner. Pretty poor sloping and drain design too; water has a hard time making it to the drain and sits up there for a long time. Definitely not helping the leaking issues.

Thanks for the feedback

If there is moisture in the system, it has to be vented or torn off. Looks like 4-5 stories up? Fully adhered 60 mil EPDM over at least 2 layers of polyisocyanurate insulation is a good choice, but specify solvent based adhesive. You want to keep the drainline inside the building if you get sub freezing winters and a lot of snow. Not sure of the parapet height, but an overflow scupper should be considered. Don’t believe YELP/BBB/ ANGIE’S LIST, they get paid to say the contractor is good.

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That’s the 3rd floor roof. At first we thought it was a damaged soffit in that corner letting water in. But after having that caulked we still have a lot of water coming into the corner of the house (~20%), so we’re pretty sure it’s the drain.

Will make sure to specify that on the epdm. That’s what the last roofers used on another roof and they did a horrid install. Didn’t prep/clean the roof or adhere it properly, so it’s a wrinkled mess. They also botched the wall termination, which continues letting water into the ceiling below.

With any roof you pay for the installation, the material matter, but…