Roof Deck Protection & Leak Barriers

I’d like to ask for current opinions on:

Deck-Armor vs. Tiger Paw vs. Shingle-Mate
and
StormGuard vs. WeatherWatch XT vs. WeatherWatch

Thank you for whatever insights you can share.

I would suggest Deck-Armor for roof deck protection and Weather Watch for leaking issues. They will serve the purpose in an awesome. I got it done with my roof which was installed by Roof Lines East Inc in Ontario and it works perfect now!

[quote=“DryCeilingDesired”]I’d like to ask for current opinions on:

Deck-Armor vs. Tiger Paw vs. Shingle-Mate
and
StormGuard vs. WeatherWatch XT vs. WeatherWatch

Thank you for whatever insights you can share.[/quote]

Deck armour & Tiger paw are synthetic underlayments, these are intended for a temporary roof covering that may be needed for more than a week or 2.
Shingle mate is supposed to be a premium felt, it’s not, it’s slippery and basically not very good.
If you want a good quality felt look for Roofer select.

Stormguard, Weatherwatch, & Weatherwatch XT are supposed to be ice & water shield membranes.
The above listed are ok but if you want something that works when needed get Grace Ice & water shield.
If you have ice damming that likely can’t be remedied Grace will offer the best protection until the nails rust out.

I wouldn’t use Shingle Mate on anything that might see water, it’s that useless IMO.

I would rather use Titanium UDL over GAF Deck Armor. And regular tar paper over Shingle Mate.

Grace for ice & water shield or Carlisle ccw. & for synthetic dryin i’d say griprite.

If your roof is installed and ventilated properly they will serve little purpose.

[quote=“bcdemon”]I wouldn’t use Shingle Mate on anything that might see water, it’s that useless IMO.

I would rather use Titanium UDL over GAF Deck Armor. And regular tar paper over Shingle Mate.[/quote]

For residential would UDL-25 Plus be sufficient or would UDL-30 or UDL-50 be a better install?
Would you recommend cap nails for the 25/30 even if install is same day?

Here is section from UDL-25 Plus Leaflet:
“FASTENERS: If leaving UDL-25 PLUS exposed longer than 5 days product
must be attached to the structural roof deck material using a minimum 1"
diameter plastic or metal cap with either ring shank nails (preferred) or
smooth leg nails (acceptable). Miami Dade approved tin tags/metal caps
acceptable with the rough edge facing up. If product is going to be covered
with asphalt shingles or metal roofing panels within 5 days UDL-25 PLUS can
be installed with the use of corrosive resistant 3/8” head x 1" minimum length
leg roofing nails (ring shank nail leg is recommended). DO NOT USE
STAPLES: use of staples to penetrate UDL-25 PLUS will void warranty."

From UDL-30 Leaflet:
“FASTENERS: If leaving UDL-30 exposed longer than 5 days product must
be attached to the structural roof deck material using a minimum
1"diameter plastic or metal caps with either ring shank nails (preferred) or
smooth leg nails (acceptable). Miami-Dade approved tin tags/metal caps
acceptable with the rough edge facing up. If product is going to be
covered with asphalt shingles or metal roofing panels within 5 days UDL-30
can be installed with the use of corrosive resistant 3/8” head x 1" minimum
length leg roofing nail (ring shank nail leg is recommended).
DO NOT USE STAPLES: use of staples to penetrate UDL-30 will void
warranty."

From the UDL-50 Leaflet:
“FASTENERS: UDL-50 must be attached to the structural roof deck material
using 3/8" head electro galvanized roofing nails; tin tag caps & nails;
screws with washers; plastic caps with minimum 7/16” leg staples or longer
nails."

Grip-Rite ShingleLayment’s warranty is for 20 years. Does this matter since all of the manufacturer’s try to weasel out of claims anyway?

Do you use regular caps or theirs?

From ShingleLayment’s Leaflet:
“Corrosion resistant fasteners shall be plastic cap nails or staples
with a minimum nominal 1-inch diameter head. The use of cap
staples should be limited to installations that will be covered by the
final roofing system within 60 days as the membrane will be less
resistive to the elements which may result in blow-off.
Grip-Rite fasteners are recommended. Ensure fasteners are
installed at 90-degree angle to the deck with flush contact between
the plastic cap and the upper surface of the underlayment. Where
local code requires metal cap washers, Grip-Rite Tin-Caps are
recommended.”

I’m not sure which Carlisle WIP you mean.
WIP 100, WIP 250, WIP 300HT, WIP 400, WIP 401LT, or WIP 403HR?

You do intend to install a roof over this, correct? I think you’re over analyzing the underlayments job in a roof system

I put titanium udl30 on a chicken coop I built about two years ago. Still holding strong!

I use hand bangers or staples. Most of my work is copper panels so I cant use cap nails. They’ll reflect thru the panels. The other half of my work is slate & cap nails make the slates rock back n forth.

LOL :smiley: Yes, there will be shingles on top.
Just want to do it right the first time. 8)
As opposed to the age old adage
“Never enough time to do it right, always enough time to do it over.” LOL :!:

[quote=“DryCeilingDesired”]For residential would UDL-25 Plus be sufficient or would UDL-30 or UDL-50 be a better install?
Would you recommend cap nails for the 25/30 even if install is same day?[/quote]

We’ve installed UDL-25 with regular hammer tacker staples and left it open to wind and rain for a month and it didn’t move or leak whatsoever.

I prefer to go with “Perfect will do just fine, thanks” :mrgreen:

[quote=“DryCeilingDesired”]For residential would UDL-25 Plus be sufficient or would UDL-30 or UDL-50 be a better install?
Would you recommend cap nails for the 25/30 even if install is same day?
[/quote]

Go for the UDL-30 or 50, the 25 sucks, and yes use cap nails, if your shingles ever do blow off you’ll have better secondary protection…

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the comments and info. They are very helpful.