Roof finally complete - still have question

Well, after using the site since April I finally managed to find a roofer and get my house re-roofed. I followed lots of the advice given on here and I think the roof is now better than ever.

I used Elk High Definition shingles, Air Vent Shingle II-9 ridge vent and installed smart vent product to help with intake since I had absolutley none.

The roof has been done for about a week and it’s been pretty warm here (Oklahoma) and so far I am not real impressed with the venting of the attic. My only reason to replace the roof was to address the heat buildup in the attic - sometimes it would reach 160+ which caused the shingles to start curling. I really thought all the changes I made would make a big difference, but so far they haven’t and I am worried now that my new roof will start to curl like the old one did.

I measured the temp yesterday in the attic while the outside temp was 97 degress - it was about 150. I called the contractor I used and he was very nice and said his recommendation would be to install a power vent on the back side of the house to help remove the heat from the attic and rely on the ridge vent for all year ventilation, but use the power vent to assit in the really hot months. He said of coarse this will interfere with the ridge vent working like it should but it may be the only way to really get the hot air out.

I would appreciate any help or advice on what my next step should be.

Thanks in advance!

A framer I know had ridge vent installed on his 8/12 cabin/house (3,000sq ft) and was very unhappy about how warm his attic was. A few months after the roof was installed he added an air vent ever six feet two feet under the ridge vent, his attic is much cooler now.

The other day I asked him about how his cabin roof is and he said this, “Doug, the other day I crawled up onto my roof and put my hand over the ridge vent and then over the air vents. My hand was normal temp over the ridge vent and felt very hot over the air vent”.

I asked him to go up in the attic to make sure the peak was cut 3 inches open and if they forget to cut the felt away (seen this once). He said it looked normal, he was one step ahead of me.

The only time I put on ridge vent is with a vault with baffles.

If it were my job I’d have skipped on the ridge vent and installed an air vent every 4-5ft. Power vents work but will cost you money in more ways than one. The power vent is $100-200, buy a good one. If your roofer is handy he can wire it if not you need to call an electrician. If you get a thermostat controlled version which is best you will be paying for a cooler attic every summer all summer long. Since it’s only a fan it won’t use a lot of ellectricity, but it will cost you monthly.

Air vents work very well…

ridge vent is still a passive system and relys on other factors like wind. as air moves over the ridge vent it is supposed to develop a low pressure situation in the attic drawing the heat out. so for it to work best you need wind,it to be blowing in the right directon and little obstuction. don’t get me wrong it still lets heat out and works but a fan sucks it out with proper intake. don’t forget the more air you have moving through your attic in summer the more you have in winter. make sure you have the proper amount of insulation on the attic floor and any water pipes are insulated.
gaf makes a solar powerd fan. never installed one though.

I am a strong convert to the GAF solar powered units. I have installed about 50+ of them & will be doing one this week.

If the customer already has a turbine, we don’t charge for it [labor] when doing a total re-roofing job, only the fan + about 5.00 for the hassle & + 20.00 if they want me to paint it to match.

I much rather prefer the solar unit vs. wired because it’s not thermostat controlled; when the sun is on it, it’s working. It will also pull air during the winter & that means moist air will be drawn through as well. Not so with a thermostatically controlled unit.

For installations where there’s no other roofing work going on (i.e. serious shingle work on that slope) then I pay my contract labor 100.00, the fan costs me 165.00 + tax, & I charge the customer $ 425.00 (the ‘overhead’ is liability, downline customer management, etc & of course profit, i.e. making a living).

For 2 story or steep slopes, the $$ goes up in increments of $ 25.00 which goes to the installer.

Well, according to quite a few posters here, you’re out of luck.
A power vent will draw air directly from the ridge vent, “short circuiting” the ridge/soffit vent “system”, voiding all the warranties, and probably make you’re attic even hotter than it was. :smiley:

I suggest adding gable end vents and the power vent.

Ventilation Basicslink

The short circuit mythlink

Unfornately, I only have the ability to add one gable vent at one end since the other end is blocked - hence the reason I went with the ridge vent to begin with. Do you think adding one gable vent in conjuction with the ridge vent would help?

The only reason I ask this is because we do have a small window on a dormer in the attic - when I got home yesterday I decided I would open it to see what would happen. I really don’t know what was happening with airflow but the temp did go down to 110 degrees with the outside temp being 99 degrees. I did not think this was too bad - what do you think? If this is a possible solution I could either add the gable vent to the end of the house or manufacture a type of louvered vent to insert in the window. If I was to add the gable vent does it matter how high I place it? Since the attic is not finished and no plans to it could be lower than normal if it was a benefit.

hopefully you bought a lite (in color) shingle.
if you put a dark colored shingle on your house,
good luck on tryin to cool your attic.
and i dont think 160 is that bad if its 100 degree


I know you already paid for the job, and obviously you will want to stick with the roof you have on now.
So, yes do explore different ventilation options such as power vents to help you cool off your attic as much as possible. Keep in mind that there are many roofs that get just as hot and even hotter.

Also, one of the best ways to keep your roof cool in the first place is to install a light colored metal roof that is going to reflect the sun heat, rather than attract the heat and transfer it inside the house.


just for reference, we have a one story ranch, to cool our attic space, we have ridge vents, 3 thermostaic power fans, two box vents, sofit vents, insulation, and the attic still is warm, but not as bad as used to be.

the gable vents only move the air that is by them.

you should just figure your attic area and see how much venting you’ll need. ask around. it also depends on the framing of all the roof area ty-ins ,like hips, the decking open in these areas to allow the air flow around them?

I really believe that no one actually cools their attic area as much as we would like.

Soffit vents is what allows all of those roof vents to breath. This will allow adiquit air flow throughout the entire attic area. Basic roofing in florida.

Never mind me im just shaking my head over here. The attic will always be hotter. I dont care if you do a 100 power vents it will still be hotter.

True, GTP, however that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t try to lessen the heat impact in a combination of price & attractiveness.

(BTW, War Goddess, that mixture up on the roof of your 1 story sorta makes me think of a fully loaded combination pizza; you’ve got a bit of everything going on… do some searching on other threads here where we’ve debated / argued about having ridge vents, power vents, gable vents, etc. all on the same roof).

I agree but a little of everything is not the answer as we have debated in the past

A lot (most) of older houses weren’t built with proper ventilation in mind…
Some can be fixed and some can’t.
A cold roof is a good solution but can be a difficult sell due to the cost…
Generally, mixing ridgevents with pot vents, gable vents, or power vents is a no-no but it depends on the house…
They are all different.
It is up to the roofers skill, knowledge, and experience to determine the best solution for a given structure.
And the homeowner has to be willing to pay the extra expense…