Roofing / Exterior Work in Chicago Burbs

Hello, this is a great forum with tons of info. I appreciate all the work that has been done to educate homeowners on the details of quality roofing.

My house took some wind damage in June and I was approached by a storm chaser who inspected the roof and worked with my insurance adjuster. I like the people I have worked with there so far, and really have no issues with them doing the job. I told them that along with the roof job I wanted new soffets and gutters, a repaint of the house (cedar siding) and to replace the last old window in my house which happens to be a 7 panel bay.

Once the claim was approved I received the estimate for all work except the roof. There was some negotiation as it was more then I expected, but not out of line. I asked for a detailed estimate for the roof but have not received that yet. Subsequently I reviewed their shingles (IKO) and determined that I would not be using that manufacturer. Their reputation, combined with the multiple class action suits in several states eliminates IKO as an option. I have asked for their estimated to include GAF or CertainTeed and provided a line and color for each brand. Nothing crazy, a basic 30 year arch shingle, not the cheapest but not the most expensive.

In doing research on residential roofing I became interested in the metal option. I had discussed it with my wife a year or so back and now I am considering it again - if its not insanely more expensive. I realize in reading here that the installer is really key to getting that job done right and I have not been able to determine how to identify the wheat from the chaff so to speak.

Additionally Anderson will be giving me an estimate for the window. All my other windows are Anderson and originally I was told it would be 5-7k for the window, and was given a different option. Just as an aside I offered to do all the paint on the inside to defray some costs. Using Anderson’s website the initial cost for their window is much lower and more inline with what I am quoted for this other brand so I’ll see how that goes.

Again, I like the guys who I am working with and am not interested in completely cutting them to the bone, but really I just want the best quality materials etc that I can get. Any ideas on how much more a metal roof would cost me, and how to find someone to talk with in my area would be appreciated.

I may go ahead and get a second quote on the regular roof depending on how much they change things around now that I’ve asked for better materials and a detailed estimate. Just to keep everybody honest and to satisfy myself that the pricing was accurate.

I’m also looking for some type of example specification. Something that I can attach to the contract to guarantee that the installation is done correctly for all of the roofing material (ie ice and water shield, correctly installing the shingles etc).

Firstly, before you go getting additional quotes, did you sign any agreement with the Storm chasing Contractor already?

Metal, or at least the good quality metal roof systems are quite more expensive than asphalt shingles.

You “can” go over a one layer asphalt roof with metal, but it is still not advised to do so.

We did the roofs on many of the franchise theme restaurants along Army trail Road, near Stratford Square Mall and several of them have various metal systems on portions of them.

There are many types of systems for a metal roof.
Standing Seam
Batten Seam
Inter-locking Seam
Ones that look like shakes or shingles
etc…

New construction prices alone, not including the necessary tear-off and other prep work should be around $8.00 to $12.00 dollars per square foot, just to give you a very basic idea of typical material and labor prices and may even be on the low side right now.

A Kynar 500 coated metal is the premium, which will last the longest for color coated finishes.

I agree with you completely about the IKO in our area and would choose the Certainteed LandMark or Tamko Heritage as my first suggestions for good performance with our weather conditions.

For ANY company you plan on doing business with, do a Google Search using the Company Name and then add the work “Complaint” after it and see what you find out about them.

Also, check with the IPFPR, Illinois Department of Financial and Professional Regulation Website to see if and for how long they have been licensed in our State.

Unfortunately, if it is an out of town gypsy company, they will pull up roots and depart the next time there is Storm Damage in any other State, leaving the home owner with no contractor to contact in the years to come.

We just got done with a job near Schick Road and Bartlett Road and I am very familiar with the other local guys if you decide you want a referral to a good quality company.

How many and what style of windows are you replacing for that 5-7 K price option?

Remember too, that even though the insurance company has come up with their negotiated estimate that they say that they will be willing to pay, that you probably have a “Replacement Cost Policy”, which contractually obligates them to pay you whatever price, within reason, meaning that a contractor does not charge more than 4 times the going rate and is gouging, for the actual bill for “Like Kind And Quality” of the Current Existing materials you have on that were damaged.

Feel free to ask as many questions as you want about metal roofing or shingling and especially the proper amount of Balanced Attic Ventilation.

Ed

What I do for my customers, is bring a copy of The Master Shingle Applicators Manual, which describes nearly every process in the stages of installing a new roof.

You can request one from Certainteed for free, if you don’t mind waiting about 2 weeks for it to get to you.

For home owners who want to see the differences in what one guy says compared to another, it comes in very handy.

Along with that, you should expect, no, Demand, that any proposal is clearly detailed in it’s entire scope of work.

Some people think that mine is too long, but it most definitely describes everything we are going to do, from arriving at the job, the clean-up methods and frequency, the types of materials that are to be used, the specification of the proper type of wood decking used if needed, the nightly cover up additional tarping, just in case, type protection and the nailing pattern that we are then bound and obligated to perform to, along with any potential included suggestion or option, clearly listed out for people to see and understand.

Read through some of the other stories here, or on another site, called, www.DIYchatroom.com and find out the mishaps that can and do occur on a regular basis when you do not get all of the details up front.

Ed

I have read some of those stories and thats what gave me some pause and a reason to make certain I have a decent spec.

I did sign an agreement pre-insurance inspection but that was predicated upon using quality materials, and my wife is a top-tier litigation attorney. The agreement is not of great concern to me. But I do honestly like the guys, their explanation of how they will watch over the job etc seems sincere. My intent is not to rape them, but to insure that I am getting a quality product installed correctly.

It is one window approximately 112" by 55, 7 panels with the outer two screened and crank out. Single pane too… nice for the energy bill. I plan to claim an energy credit for this upgrade. Ventilation is a key part of this job, I currently have powered fans, they will replace these and I will do the wiring on the inside. I understand the concept of how it cools and the importance and it is something we want done correctly.

I am shying away from metal now, just because we have 16.3 squares and I am guessing low side of $750 per square installed? I’d like to pry another 3-4k out of the wife for metal but I don’t think its going to happen :smiley:

Tried to edit out that last paragraph but wasn’t able, only saw your price estimate after re-reading the posts.

Went ahead and had them install Certainteed Landmark Premium (40 yr). They finished it yesterday and now I have some issues. First one is they put a vent over my vaulted ceiling (???) Check this out…

http://mindspear.com/pictures/vc_vent.jpg

which is about here on the inside. You can also see where the nails popped out of the sheetrock. This has happened in several places on these ceilings.

http://mindspear.com/pictures/vc_inside.jpg

There was no vent there before, can’t figure out what they thought they were doing. They also installed a vent over my kitchen in an area where the roof is insulated. In other words, they punched down through the insulation into the small area over the kitchen, which defeats the purpose of having it insulated.

Last, there was a powered vent over the upper living area and that was not replaced. The thing that makes me nervous is they didn’t do the vents until the whole roof was shingled, then just chopped down through the finished roof to install the vents.

Here’s a picture of where the vent was placed in the area over the kitchen. You can see where the insulation was just pushed down.

http://mindspear.com/pictures/kitchenattic.jpg

And a couple of shots of the marks in the ceiling.

http://mindspear.com/pictures/ceilingmarks_1.jpg

http://mindspear.com/pictures/ceilingmarks_2.jpg

If the power vent being replaced is what you agreed on call him back. I don’t see what a box vent could possibly do in an insulated rafter bay, not sure why they did that. If they know what they’re doing, you shouldn’t have to worry about the fact that they installed them after the fact, but the fact that they installed them after the fact shows me they probably didn’t know what they were doing(???). Or they realized they forgot the power vent and tried to do something real quick.

As far as the nail pops go, this kind of comes with the territory in vaulted ceiling areas. I try not to slam bundles of shingles on the roof if I know I have a vaulted ceiling below me but some are less careful.

Thanks for the info, are they responsible for fixing the nail pops?

Nail pops through a ceiling, especially a vaulted/cathedral style ceiling is something that WILL happen and is just a fact to accept, which I even inform home owners of in those situations.

The continuous pounding on the roof and laying or slightly dropping bundles of shingles onto the decking, which is directly connected to the ceiling joists or rafters is going to create the type of vibration to loosen nails. (Why don’t drywallers use screws on ceilings???), and should have been explained by the contractor.

Putting a small static air vent over just one individual rafter bay over a vaulted/cathedral ceiling just shows the complete lack of experience and knowledge of both, the salesman and the installation crew, and would leave me suspicious of what else they didn’t know. That is roofing ventilation 101 there.

The one over the kitchen…Did they connect it to an exhaust vent from your kitchen range exhaust fan hood? Otherwise, what the heck were they thinking.

For a vaulted/cathedral style roof, the ONLY proper ventilation that will work, is a 100% continuous intake ventilation provided by the soffits and also a 100% continuous Ridge Vent across that particular entire peak. Once again, what the heck were they thinking???

But, I would venture to say realistically, that over 90% of all “Supposed” professional roofing contractors would have also been similarly uninformed.

Does that make you feel any better? I doubt it, but that is where checking on previous jobs and talking to previous references, not only from last weeks job and 1-3 months ago customers, but ones that had there roof installed by that company 5-10 years ago and seeing how well or not the roof stood the test of time.

You don’t need a lecture on what you did wrong in the selection process at this point in time, so you will not get one, but what you should get is a properly installed roof and ventilation system that minimally, but preferably, exceeds the manufacturers requirements for your roof to have the manufacturers warranty, which it would not right now as it sits.

I get hired by home owners and home inspectors to provide after the job post-installation inspections and your situation is quite typical of what I find.

Ed

No problem, thanks for the info. Actually what I did was drive around the neighborhood and talk to homeowners who had their roofs done by these guys in the last couple of months. I deliberately waited for a while until they could do somebody else’s house first and I could talk to them. 3 people gave them high marks (ie very happy).

The one over the kitchen is connected to nothing, just knocked that insulation down.

I hear what you are saying, I almost called you. But I had worked with them and they checked out reference-wise. They assured me that the ventilation issue would be handled. But now I have problems obviously. I’ll post to let everyone know how it goes.

[quote=“JeffG”]
I hear what you are saying, I almost called you. But I had worked with them and they checked out reference-wise. They assured me that the ventilation issue would be handled. But now I have problems obviously. I’ll post to let everyone know how it goes.[/quote]

Please post your results.

BTW you can still hire Ed.

Actually, if anyone asks me about roofing they automatically will get sent his way :smiley:

Power vent was installed, misplaced vents were taken out and put where they were supposed to go in the first place.

Now I am wondering about some lift I am getting on the edges after the fascia and gutters where installed. The gutter guy says its no problem, shingles will lay back down over time. The metal is above the plywood from 1/4 to 3/8 about 4 inches back from the edge. Here are the pics, let me know if I should just forget this or if its important.

To see the images larger here are the actual links

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashinglift_1.jpg

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashinglift_2.jpg

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashinglift_3.jpg

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashing_front.jpg

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashinglift_4.jpg

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashinglift_1.jpg

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashinglift_2.jpg

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashinglift_3.jpg

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashinglift_4.jpg

And here is where the flashing was nailed down and silconed in the front. Seems sort of dicey to me, it wasn’t nailed before.

http://mindspear.com/pictures/flashing_front.jpg

P.I.T.A perhaps