Selvage roofing in bad shape after 7 years

7 years ago, I installed selvage roofing on my 14’ X 10’ porch roof (low pitch). Materials:
5 rolls 19" black selvage roofing
1 roll 15lb roofing felt
2lb 1" roofing nails
roofing brush
5gal Primekote Cold Process Adhesive & Lap Cement

I know roll roofing isn’t long-lived, but disappointed that it’s already curled up on the edges, losing grit, and has many long/narrow “bumps”. Basically, in rough shape.

When I built the porch 21yr ago, I installed treated plywood and sealed the seams and now glad I did. This is the second roof -a roofer did the first along with the main roof.

I hoped to get 10yr out of this roofing. Are these problems common after only 7 years?

The job only cost about $100 7 years ago, but not looking forward to doing it again already.

Any recommendation for the best products and method to install a more durable roof without spending big $? Since the roof isn’t visible, would stripping it and brushing an aluminum coating on the plywood be worth considering?

Thanks for your time.


$14 per yr… you got a GREAT Deal!

A 30 yr shingle roof system w/ good energy effiiecency could cost about about $300 per yr. ($9K/ 30 yrs =$300 / yr)… theoretically anyway.

W/ poor energy efficiency of course, it’d prolly be double that…
Premature failure adds even more to the cost of ownership

Selvage roll? Do they even make that anymore? Buy the rubber and be done w/ it. If’n you do it yourself. then 2 sq.(.060) costs $250-300 (+ disposal & other expenses) lasts 30 yrs. = $8-12 per yr…

Thanks for your replies-
I agree that cost is not an issue, right now. I’m not getting any younger though, and it will cost a lot more if I pay someone to do this job next time!

Regarding the recommended EPDM-
Online I found “EPDM Liquid Rubber” that can be applied over primed wood.
5gal white “covers 210sqft at 20 mil dry film” and costs $300.
Sounds interesting, but liquid EPDM requires special prep to ensure it adheres properly.
Recommended or not?

I assume $250-300 quoted for EPDM assumes DIY. Is EPDM reasonably easy for DIY’ers?
If not, what does installed EPDM cost?

Any good EPDM DIY links or recommended suppliers? I’m in the Central NY.


I would recommend the Epdm also.Another cost effective product IMO is some self adhering such as Mulehide.I really have not installed the smearable for a long time.

Its messy and leaves you and your tools covered if you are not experienced.I have seen alot of roofs that had the curling edges and the wrinkles from the trapped air pockets.Those problems are typical installation errors.

I either use Epdm or a self adhering product.The base sheet is really impressive IMO.But true the time to act is now.

Self adhering mod bit is probably the best way to go for a DIY.
Epdm is great, but it will cost you more than that to do it right. You need bonding adhesive (adhered) or screws and plates (mech attached), primer, cover tape etc…
Its a bunch of stuff you have to buy that you will have a lot of extra of and nothing to do with.
Self adhering mod bit, you just need some edge metal and a can of spray primer. Lay it down per instructions and your good to go. Maybe a tube of cement.

Some interesting ideas, but no response yet to this part of my question:

*Since the roof isn’t visible, would stripping it and brushing an aluminum coating on the treated plywood be worth considering? *

This is “Pushing the Easy Button” but if it’s not crazy I like the idea of just having to spread this stuff on from time to time instead of more roofing projects.

Is it a bad idea?

Thanks for your time!

Is it a bad idea?

Thanks for your time![/quote]

Yes. If it is water tight at all it won’t be for long. But I feel confident saying it will not be watertight at all.

Frankly, this may be the worst roofing idea I’ve ever heard.

Hmmm. Just do the roof if you silver coat the ply you are asking to rebuild the porch.

Worst roofing idea you ever heard eh? :biggrin:

I knew about the brushed alum coating but not what it’s capable of, so had to ask!

Now I have to consider the recommended self-adhering mod bit.

I don’t want to spend a fortune or get TOO fancy, but don’t want to replace selvage roofing every 7yr either!

Self adhered mod bit here. Nailable base, 1-2 inter plies, and a cap sheet that looks like roll roofing.

I agree Tinner,its really some impressive material IMO,nice and spongy,But you have pretty much 1 shot at placement when the plastic is removed from the back of the cap.

Sticky,super sticky…,what sucks a bit is the base is the same as the cap.But I would much rather install that than the smearables,

I have seen so many people just covered with tar from applications.All over shoes,ears,foreheads,eyebrows,eye glasses,elbows,butts,door handles,tools,truck doors,steering wheels,nostrils,gutters and downspouts,sidewalks,truck seats,gear shifts,siding,ladders,shoe prints all over the roof.

How is it possible to get that much Poogie(tar) everywhere else other than the proper application area?

“How is it possible to get that much Poogie(tar) everywhere else other than the proper application area?”
I’m vexed with that particular affliction. :oops:

Back in the sixties after being told to caulk something, the Boss told me I had two choices. “Frank, become a roofer or a caulker. And I don’t think you’ll make it as a caulker”. I still can’t caulk worth a crap, so I have to know how to waterproof as if I’ll never open a tube, or a can of the stuff.

Tinner you said, “1-2 inter plies, and a cap sheet that looks like roll roofing” could you explain what this is? Also, what’s the lifespan of Mulehide?

Inter-ply looks like the base sheet, and is self-adhesive. Like Roofmaster said, you oinly get one shot to peel the liner off correctly. Very tacky and where it hits, it stays. Think’Contact Glue’.

2-ply roof should outlast 1-ply by 50-100% as long. Theoretically, each ply will add 5-10 years longevity. ANd once you’ve started and have 1 inter-ply down, it’s waterproof. YOU CANNOT LAY EACH PLY DIRECTLY ON TOP OF THE ONE BEFORE!

Decide how many layers you want, then cut each first piece so the laps don’t overlap previous laps! Once that’s laid out and set, full sheets are used.

NRCA Tech Data

JM Specs

Certainteed Handbook

Use this term to find out more: “SBS mod-bit roof installation instructions”

Thanks for the links and answers Tinner, a rooftop education is found here! Do any of these products have a lifespan like that of 16 oz copper or painted .040 aluminum?

No idea, and both of those can south much faster with acid rain and other galvanic factors that can be unforseen until something crops up.

If you’re downwind of a coal plant figure 15 years tops! Would you choose painted steel over alum/copper? I guess it’s region by region.

Self adhered mod bit here. Nailable base, 1-2 inter plies, and a cap sheet that looks like roll roofing.

I’m considering going with the Mule Hide self-adhering mod bit. Have a few Q’s:

With this stuff so tacky, will it be impossible to tuck it up under the shingles along the 14’ main roof bottom edge? Any ideas for this? The roof is 14X10’.

Which Base Sheet? (Self-adhering or nailable?) Self-adhering avoids driving more nails in the treated plywood, so like that idea.

Which Cap Sheet? (Self-Adhering SBS or Self-Adhering APP?)

What material should be ordered for the recommended “1-2 inter plies”?

Thanks for your time!