There is a spot I do not like when I flash skylights in aluminum. Top corners. To get the metal to sit flat I often feel like there is a small void at all corners. Bottom ones don’t bother me much, they don’t see much water. Top ones do. With copper, no problem I can just finger bend it around the corner any shape I want. Aluminum not the same, and i refuse to rely on caulking for this.
What do you guys do at this spot? i have seen them done without wrapping tight to the corner and leaving a little fin sticking up to deflect water away from the skylight. Never tried it but seems like a good idea.
I also ice&water unit before I flash it with KIT…and have cleaned and re used flashing kits that were installed properly the 1 st time around…15 on 1 job, and the roof cost was already at 12k reusing skylite and flashing kits
I forgot to add, the turned down lip is below the top corner of the chimney. And water wants to wick right off that corner. The last step is cut to create a channel for any windblown water, and forms a seat fro the pan to sit on. Works with or without caulk.
This particular chimney was leaking and had I & W around it. I didn’t rewrap it. It’s how they were done before caulk and I & W came to be mainstream.
good God Tinner my man ! There are not any ever done that way in these parts. to me its seems crazy. you either lock and solder, lead wrap a corner or lock ,lap or neat dap with alcoa gutter seal. most jobs latley are lead wrap corners nice and neat, never a nutty fin or other unorthodox crazieness.
sorry man had to get it off my chest.
Sorry Jim, but NRCA isn’t right about everything. Don’t like the 2" bead of caulk eh? Like I said, none is necessary when done correctly. Nor is the solder.
But get spec’d on some jobs, but it’s window dressing.
On the lines of ‘Make Work’ like we sometimes had to do in the Army.
Take a peek at the Slate Roofer’s Bible sometime. The Old-School’ techniques haven’t been outmoded yet.
i agree w/ tinner. the old ways worked for a couple hundred years w/no i&w shield & etc. still tons of slate roofs out there w/ just rosin paper underlayment.
I see some prefer I do them like this, with a vertical Dl that doesn’t need solder, and the flat-lock below the corner. Solder the bottom, and the slice along the vertical DL and it’s done. Fab the counter-flashing and lock it in place with the ‘reverse’ clip you can see already attached to the sky-lite.
