Skylight flashing

Roofing/Construction Questions
#1

There is a spot I do not like when I flash skylights in aluminum. Top corners. To get the metal to sit flat I often feel like there is a small void at all corners. Bottom ones don’t bother me much, they don’t see much water. Top ones do. With copper, no problem I can just finger bend it around the corner any shape I want. Aluminum not the same, and i refuse to rely on caulking for this.

What do you guys do at this spot? i have seen them done without wrapping tight to the corner and leaving a little fin sticking up to deflect water away from the skylight. Never tried it but seems like a good idea.

#2

Get the flashing kit that goes with the skylight.
Or use flashrite corner flashings.

#3

I also ice&water unit before I flash it with KIT…and have cleaned and re used flashing kits that were installed properly the 1 st time around…15 on 1 job, and the roof cost was already at 12k reusing skylite and flashing kits

#4

Axiom, Are those flashrites generally a stock item at Bradco or ABC?

#5

Don’t know about Bradco but I am pretty sure ABC will carry them.
A box of 20 costs me $32.

You can get them at Home depot, Lowes, or menards also, but they cost twice as much.

#6

http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/8013/img_1245380804.jpg

http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/8013/img_1245380841.jpg

Pretty much the same detail no matter the material or obstacle.

#7

I forgot to add, the turned down lip is below the top corner of the chimney. And water wants to wick right off that corner. The last step is cut to create a channel for any windblown water, and forms a seat fro the pan to sit on. Works with or without caulk.
This particular chimney was leaking and had I & W around it. I didn’t rewrap it. It’s how they were done before caulk and I & W came to be mainstream.

#8

Why, oh why would you ever tar new copper?!

#9

I know, I know! I just couldn’t resist putting some lind of caulk there, even though nothing is needed, and it’s out of sight, like I mentioned.

I hate not having a back-up plan. :mrgreen:

#10

good God Tinner my man ! There are not any ever done that way in these parts. to me its seems crazy. you either lock and solder, lead wrap a corner or lock ,lap or neat dap with alcoa gutter seal. most jobs latley are lead wrap corners nice and neat, never a nutty fin or other unorthodox crazieness.
sorry man had to get it off my chest.

#11

you can also refer to the NRCA or SMACNA manual for the details although they miss some good tricks of the trade.

#12

Sorry Jim, but NRCA isn’t right about everything. Don’t like the 2" bead of caulk eh? Like I said, none is necessary when done correctly. Nor is the solder.
But get spec’d on some jobs, but it’s window dressing.
On the lines of ‘Make Work’ like we sometimes had to do in the Army.
Take a peek at the Slate Roofer’s Bible sometime. The Old-School’ techniques haven’t been outmoded yet. :slight_smile:

#13

i agree w/ tinner. the old ways worked for a couple hundred years w/no i&w shield & etc. still tons of slate roofs out there w/ just rosin paper underlayment.

#14

yes but those slate roofs are flashed right. you can install a watertight corner without a fin believe it or not.

#15

I like Tinners style,all of us could learn something from him :wink:

#16

I do…and i’ve done fins.

#17

Also with no caulk! If you get enough on you, eventually you learn to do it with none,lol

#18

I like Tinners style,all of us could learn something from him

Haha, I almost spit my coffee all over the keyboard.

#19

I don’t know what was so funny about that. :roll:

#20

I see some prefer I do them like this, with a vertical Dl that doesn’t need solder, and the flat-lock below the corner. Solder the bottom, and the slice along the vertical DL and it’s done. Fab the counter-flashing and lock it in place with the ‘reverse’ clip you can see already attached to the sky-lite. :slight_smile:

http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/8013/img_1245793939.jpg