Skylight flashing

I was wondering what you guys thought of these instructions for flashing a skylight. Also some sites say to run a strip of ice and water from the ridge to the eave 6" wider than the width of the skylight. Is that a good idea?

roofkey.com/skylight-flashing.html

Flashings work using the same principles. They overlap one another beginning at the bottom of the object where it penetrates the roof.

[quote=“skidstreet”]I was wondering what you guys thought of these instructions for flashing a skylight. Also some sites say to run a strip of ice and water from the ridge to the eave 6" wider than the width of the skylight. Is that a good idea?

roofkey.com/skylight-flashing.html[/quote]

That’s been the standard way of flashing a skylight since before I started roofing.
How have you been doing it?

My first step and backpan are different, I don’t cut them straight down to the roof, but everything else is the same.
My backpans extend 3 inches beyond the skylight side and then I fold it over. Same with my first step, instead of cutting it all the way down to the roof, I extend it past the bottom of the skylight and fold it over.

In both instances you have something to carry water away from the corners.

[quote=“bcdemon”]My first step and backpan are different, I don’t cut them straight down to the roof, but everything else is the same.
My backpans extend 3 inches beyond the skylight side and then I fold it over. Same with my first step, instead of cutting it all the way down to the roof, I extend it past the bottom of the skylight and fold it over.

In both instances you have something to carry water away from the corners.[/quote]

:smiley:
Yep. Tinner’s wings have been standard for 100’s of years and are fool-proof. Corners can’t leak when wings eliminate the issue entirely. The completed fold even prevents wind blown water from reaching the critical point where side flashing and pans meet. Works with Aluminum, Stainless, Copper, Steel, etc. No brainer.

Looks good to me.

Of course you can acheive the same effect with a bucket of tar. LOL

I do the same thing as BCDemon and Tinner…I also cut a relief of 1 1/2-2 inches at the pan, cut and wrap that piece around the curb…then bend the lower excess over(not wrapped around.

I do this for both the pan and the 1st step on each side. The relief allows you to set the skylight over the curb. I know the Demon and Tinner do this as wellor they wouldn’t be able to install the skylight.

I poop on these tutorials!!
See the picture where it says “always remember to seal the corners”??? NOOO
You have 2 choices to make something permanent, a tinners wing like thishttp://www.roofing.com/images/topics/10416/img_1292629732.jpg
See what Tinner and bcdemon are saying? Folded corner to block wind driven rain.
Or a lead wrap. Don’t have a pic. I almost always do wings these days.

I would say 40-50% of leaks I repair are at the corners of chimneys, skylights, and dormers. Corner is cut tight, caulking fails.

also, depending on the skylight you’re using, it might not be neccesary to do that couterflashing they show. The skylight itself is the counter in a lot of cases.

Thanks for the info. The only other skylight I installed was one of those bubble type that mounted directly to the roof so this will be my first curb mounted. So these Tinner’s wings extend past the bottom corner of the curb so that water running down the sides won’t travel around the corner? Sounds like a good idea. I’m still a bit unclear on how to make the cuts though. Anyone know where there is a step by step guide? Also no one said if they run ice and water from ridge to eave.

Here is another example…

[quote=“bcdemon”] Same with my first step, instead of cutting it all the way down to the roof, I extend it past the bottom of the skylight and fold it over.
.[/quote]

We do all the same except here we cut about 1" down from top so skylites, siding ,etc…can wrap around better…same w/ backpan.

Maybe this will help. As for the I&W, if I have it handy, I might use it. 99% of my work is repair, so using I&W on 6" of roof when the rest of the deck has no felt is a moot point.
http://www.albertsroofing.com/Chimney%20Repair.htm

Yes. Bubble skylight have one integral part .Always leak from unproperly installation. I use ice/water shield only underns. Skylight install with caulk. When cut shingles around lieve spc 1 inch. If you reuse this skylight ,flashing always dirty and ice/water shield never stick good.The same system inst like pipes,vents… http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/10416/img_1292897231.jpg

" When cut shingles around lieve spc 1 inch. "

Are you saying that the cut edge of the shingles should stop 1" away from the flashing that turns up the curb? All the way around the skylight? That sounds kind of wide to me. What’s the purpose? Respond soon if you can because I built the skylight curb today and start laying shingles around it tomorrow.

I prefer to make it tight there, and have the 1/32"-1/16" gap at the butt joint. In colder temp, the gap is critical to prevent buckling when hot weather arrives.
If, heaven forbid, you are using channel flashing, 1" gap is correct, AND the tops have to be 45’ve all the way to the outer edge.
Just be sure there is an opening at the back pan, as illustrated above. You don’t want to hinder water flow.

He may be talking about the back pan. 2" to 4" exposed is the norm.