Snap-lock gable detail

Can anyone recomend a good angled gable detail the roof im about to do is an A frame with an eave to ridge length of 25’ the gables angle out about 16 " we are installing 24 gauge Kynar copper penny .i have a method in mind , but im not 100% happy with it. this is going to be an extremly visible roof.

I’d fold the panels over drip edge.

i think you’re right… asthetically that would look the best im just worried about the amount of water that will be running over the gables. we live in a very wet area




and then run a gutter up the gable???

U can try and put some type o J-channel but they do clog up,i would leave it open and folded over drip edge.

Vic i grew up in Victoria and now reside and roof in South Louisiana the folding over the drip is the best way to finish that eave.We got over 20 inchs of rain in oct and dec,when it rains here it torrential.

Are you asking about gable or eve detail? eve detail i would fold and hem over/under drip edge. 25’ is a long gable to hem and fold your gable ends, my folding tool is only 19" and my hemming tool is 5" lol. I wold use a “Z” closure on your roof deck. And a continues cleat on the gable trim. The correct gable trim will slide lock onto this system. refer to your manufactures pdf install instructions and trim detail.(If you use a weather membrane on your eaves and gables, install the Z correctly with a polyeurathane you should be fine.) PS make sure you mock it up first.

Sorry, skipped the A frame angle gable detail of the post, i understand now yes fold and hem the panels to allow for drainage. Refer to manufactures trim detail.

weld two 20 inch hemming tools together to deal with this.

The tool will help you with some of your valleys too.

The snaploks Ive done come w/a edge detail like Kage mentioned. Its like putting a cleat, hookstrip, or track metal on first & then your roof panel snaps onto it, I wouldnt put a tstyle metal on the rakes & crimp it, that looks like shit. The way Im talkin, the panels end up all astetically the same. Call your supplier & ask, he should have it or be able to get it. I use Atlas & order thru Beacon Sales. I doubt they are down your way but maybe ABC Supply. Do you have a accesory catalog for the brand your using? Worse case you can fab something or if you have xtra panels you can cut the tongue off & use that as a cleat, hook, or track.

Or, raise the rake edge up a couple inches with plywood, tapered back to the field, and treat it like a valley.

thanks for the advice guys and i agree folding the pans over drip edge up the gable would be the easiest and best looking but i just don’t think having water pouring over at thier entrance is going to fly im think of something like denise is suggesting. i think i’ll run a 2x2 up the angled gable and install a back pan-valley against the 2x2 then install a cleat and hook the angled panels onto that then cap the 2x2

Here is how it should look: This is a two part systems.

On your edge panel you bend up the edge along the rake - it should be about 1.25-1.5" up.

Then there is an edge hook which is installed under the panel and a special trim sits over the edge (cleat?) that you bet up on the panel, hooks to the edge starter and gets crimped.

Green snap-lock - need gable hook-starter.

Gray - Edge trim is screwed into the rake board

Use roller tool to make “cleat” (not really sure what the industry jargon is… I come up with my own names for these things :mrgreen: Usually it is a curse word, so I’m not broadcasting my terminology here…

Here is the detail for the first method, but it will work pretty much same way in the second method, just without the starter hook.

Results can be seen here: Standing Seam Metal Roof in Wayland MA - this snap-lock roof is not exactly your a-frame, but you got the idea. This edge termination clips will keep the water from rolling over the edge and it will look nicely. Even if you did have a drip edge along gable, that sheet-metal roller would save you a lot of time and aggravation.

Good luck

I like your gable trim LA, but I think what he has is a flared or chalet type gable .Another option, go to ASC’s installation manual.Look up their gable trim.You can use that, but install a cleat and hook it, rather than ASC’s exposed screws.The Asc one is raised up.Good luck-Ray

yes your right it is an angled gable. this is a great option thanks ray

LA that green snap lock in your pics looks great…very clean

I have never seen that gable detail. I like. What manufacturer do you use or do you produce your own?

Who are you asking? :smiley:

One of them is Drexel and another on is ATAS. Sold by local distributors (Harvey and Beacon).

Bradco also has a sheet metal shop now - they bought up Admiral Building Products and now cover most of Mass. territory…

In reality, suppliers will make you any detail you want - I always order custom flashing for my jobs - just draw it on a piece of paper, take a digital photo and email it to the guy taking orders. Very simple :slight_smile:

As for curved metal - you would also need a curved panel and if you got supplier for that, they should also be able to make curved flashing.

L.A., I should of thought yesterday to have him look you up. Your way is the same way I do it when i sub off Mike Garnett @ Classic Metal Roofs or Bill & Rich @ Custom Metal Systems over in Franklin. I live in NH & always see that bent over the rake edge technique & as far as Im concerned its incorrect & looks like shit! Id hem it onto a tstyle drip before Id ever bend it over the edge wouldnt you?

"Use roller tool to make “cleat” (not really sure what the industry jargon is… "

Its called ER3 by Malco. Great tool.

puts up to a 5 inch 90 degree brake on any length of metal.
Fits in your tool box…priceless.