TAMKO Products

I am new to this site, so thanks for your help in advance. I live in Northern NJ, looking to put a new shingle roof on soon. The roof is old, so it’ll be a tear off and new everything all around (although the tongue-in-groove underneath is in excellent shape). One roofer, well established with a good rep, is suggesting TAMKO products (ice sheath, ridge vents, shingles). Any opinion on this product as opposed to Certainteed or GAF? He’s giving me a good price, and I’m confident they’ll do a good job, just need to be reassured on the product. Thanks again for the feedback.

Hi Kenny,

Price is not everything. Its just a number. What you are getting for a specific price is what counts not the number. Normally the shingles go like this as far as companys time in business and quality IMO that is:

Im a certainteed man myself but like GAF also. Those two are high quality shingles period. I dont lay down tamko shingle and never have so i can not tell you anything about them. WHat i can tell you is the shingles do not make that big of difference it is the installation that is important. Well ok IKO dont use that. Ask him for references, make sure his insurance is up to date and not canceled call the insurance company to verify the coverages. He should have given you references already. If you have any other questions please feel free to email me or post it here.

I install a lot of Tamko; price-wise, it’s comparable to Atlas.

There are two differing ways that you can view this:

  1. How long am I going to live in this house? If I’m here 10 years or less, will I even remember to tell the customer what shingle mfg. I used? On top of this, will the new homeowner even care?
  2. If I did purchase a “premium” brand shingle (in the generic 3Tab/20 Year -or- Dimensional/30 Year type, will the price difference that I pay for this hsingle translate to an increased sales price if I sell the house? (It shouldn’t cost you more than $ 2.00 per bundle to make the upgrade from ‘Brand X’ to ‘Brand Y’…)

Tamko (especially the 30 Year variety) is a decent enough product IMO & as GTP said, you can have aircraft grade stainless steel dipped in titanium, but in the hands of an untrained / careless installer, you may as well not have done the work.

FWIW, I’m doing a GAF 28 sq full house with CertainTeed FlintLastic 3 sq on Monday, just did an Atlas 24 sq on Tuesday & on Thursday have a Tamko 35 sq 10:12 lined up.

The two most common reasons I find someone selecting a specific brand over another is a 50-50 mixture of cost vs. color availability.

BTW, give us the details about your house (size, pitch, type of pipe penetration coverings [lead jacks vs. 3 in 1’s], flat roof sections & chimney or counterflashing work, etc.) & we’ll pick apart the estimate for you. We love to do that sorta thing…


Tamko is a decent shingle. I install them when I need a red shingle.

I do not pick apart the price part of the estimate. From what I know Texas prices will be way different then New Jersey.


Tamko is a decent shingle. I install them when I need a red shingle.

I do not pick apart the price part of the estimate. From what I know Texas prices will be way different then New Jersey.[/quote]

  1. What does “red” have to do with anything?
  2. Notice that I didn’t mention $$ in my comment ^^.

& Texas will most certainly be different than Jersey.

What does “red” have to do with anything? [/quote]

some companies dont offer a red shingle (colors are also greatly different by region)

does your house have soffitt vents? if not, then the ridge vent will actually hurt your house. do you have gable end vents. if yes and they use a ridge vent (with soffitt vents) the gable vents need to be closed off. make sure they arent throwing a ridge vent just because “hot air rises” & everybody else does.

The house does not have soffits, but along with the ridge vents, they’ll put about 20 soffits around the house under the eaves. I asked specifically about the gable vents, and he said the more venitilation the better. No?

I’ve also been advised to be sure he replaces the step flashing by the chimneys and where the roof meets the house. The house is about 50-60 years old, so my assumption is that the step flashing is that old. The house is about 16-1700 sq feet, a split, don’t know the sq footage of the roof. Estimate for the job is $5000. I’m guessing he’ll want to charge me a bit more for the step flashing, which, from where I sit, should be part and parcel of a new roof. But I am aware it’s more work to replace them.

gable vents are an exhaust, ridge vents are an exhaust. when used next to each other it will turn one into an intake and possibly draw moisture and snow into the attic and could possibly cause condensation in the attic leading to mold growth. they cannot be used together. all he has to do is go in the attic and cover up the gable vents from the inside. ventialtion is a science…not just a hole in the roof. also make sure there is clear airflow from the soffitt to the ridge (no inulation blocking the air flow. some contractors will just go through the motion of cutting the holes and adding the soffitt vents but not making sure they actually work. chances are, if you do not currently have soffitt vents then it is more than likely packed full of insulation. if you dont understand any of this let us know.

I use tamko there a good shingle Gaf was good shingle 10yrs ago but there behind the times no selfseal on the bottom of the shingle OC are the best 30yr shingle on the market seal the best rated higest on consumer review even rated higher than some 40 i think gaf 30 was7th higest rated shingle

The hardest part about any flashing (when done right) is to get it up under any siding or to cut & set it into brick, cement, stucco or concrete. Here in Texas, a 10’ stick of Turnback Metal will run you about $ 6.00 (tops) & Apron Flashing around $ 7.00.

If they are adding soffit vents, to me that’s a much more time & parts consuming task. If you’re getting all new soffits installed (vs. cutting in & adding new rectangular vents), you could ask for Hardie materiel which has a full run of soffit venting & a LOT more CFM of intake.

since when? all my timberlines have the seal strip in the bottom. if you are buying from home depot…they are made differently than the rest of the GAF…hence the price difference. also they are standard at home depot and metric from a supplier.


There may be nothing wrong with the flashing. So there may be no need to replace it.

Who cares where the sealing strip is. The middle or the bottom they hold in the same spot.

Hi RanchHandRoofing,

My mistake. You ussually are throwing prices out there.

I like Tamko shingles! There, I said it. They have a larger shingle line, and they all come Algae resistant, and are nice and thick like Timberlines or Landmarks. Nobody can tell me different. I like them!

as of 10/06 i believe all shingles (at least in northeast ) are now algea resistant. i just found out that GAF made the switch but they arent pushing it yet because they want thier old stock to get used up.

Well I like GAF products, too.

youre exactly to the point aaron,i like tamko for the same reasons,i also use gaf &certainteed----atlas suck!!,iko has more defects(over time,usually last about 12-14 years here than ive seen w/any other shingle

My wife is a Licensed Paramedic… she sees bad drivers as job security.

Iko = bad drivers.

[quote=“RanchHandRoofing”]My wife is a Licensed Paramedic… she sees bad drivers as job security.

Iko = bad drivers.


hahahaha…you kill me