The New Roof is Done

After a few scheduling conflicts, we finally had the roof installed on Monday. As far as I can tell, they did a good job. Per your advice, I requested that the deck be renailed. I stayed out of their way, so I am not sure if it was actually done. Please let me know what you think about the final work.

Here is a good picture of the colour of the roof with the siding and chimney.

Detail Pictures of the roof
smg.photobucket.com/albums/v647/DanMages/Roof/

dan

Looks like they left out the sub flashing (tins and saddle) on the chimney. ???

nice looking job,and a perfect pic on color.It looks nice and flat… 8)

In the pics with the chimney and back pan(or lack there of as mentioned earlier) Why the need for caulking at all the joints of the shingles and around the base of chimney?..
I would further investigate this install…
Are the points cut underneath the valleys?
Are there truly soaker flashing at the chimney? Is the copper welded at the joint where the step flashing meet the back pan(if there are any) or are you relying on caulking? Why no “wings” on the back pan to allow water to shed away from the back corner?
Were you offered or informed that your chimney needs re-pointing?
Why electrical mast flashing (two piece) on the stink pipes instead of leads or 5n1 rubber boots(one piece)?
Caulking around the hooded vents? are they re-used or old ones? They should be able to install without the use of caulking(at least in our part of the world)
What is that on the gable of the flat roof? I don’t think tar or roof patch is necessary when torching with gravel stop(flat roof experts can correct me if I’m wrong).Also, are you sure, that tar or roof patch is compatible with torch-on?

Me thinks your roofer got a new caulking gun in his tool box …

just what I noticed…

johne5

looks like the shingling is O.K. Are those Tamko or Gaf ? Looks like GAF to me, whatever the case, check a few of the shingles and make sure ALL of the nails are DIRECTLY in the white nailing line. I’m not so sure on the chimney flashings. Why in the world would they use that gutter sealant where the flashing meets the shingles. Looks like they are masking something to me.

[quote=“johne5”]In the pics with the chimney and back pan(or lack there of as mentioned earlier) Why the need for caulking at all the joints of the shingles and around the base of chimney?..
I would further investigate this install…
Are the points cut underneath the valleys?
Are there truly soaker flashing at the chimney? Is the copper welded at the joint where the step flashing meet the back pan(if there are any) or are you relying on caulking? Why no “wings” on the back pan to allow water to shed away from the back corner?
Were you offered or informed that your chimney needs re-pointing?
Why electrical mast flashing (two piece) on the stink pipes instead of leads or 5n1 rubber boots(one piece)?
Caulking around the hooded vents? are they re-used or old ones? They should be able to install without the use of caulking(at least in our part of the world)
What is that on the gable of the flat roof? I don’t think tar or roof patch is necessary when torching with gravel stop(flat roof experts can correct me if I’m wrong).Also, are you sure, that tar or roof patch is compatible with torch-on?

Me thinks your roofer got a new caulking gun in his tool box …

just what I noticed…

johne5[/quote]

I guess that I did not enlarge enough pics,Now I see what you see,and also noticed that the caps are cut 3 tabs,not hip & ridge shingles… :roll:

[quote=“johne5”]In the pics with the chimney and back pan(or lack there of as mentioned earlier) Why the need for caulking at all the joints of the shingles and around the base of chimney?..
I would further investigate this install…
Are the points cut underneath the valleys?
Are there truly soaker flashing at the chimney? Is the copper welded at the joint where the step flashing meet the back pan(if there are any) or are you relying on caulking? Why no “wings” on the back pan to allow water to shed away from the back corner?
Were you offered or informed that your chimney needs re-pointing?
Why electrical mast flashing (two piece) on the stink pipes instead of leads or 5n1 rubber boots(one piece)?
Caulking around the hooded vents? are they re-used or old ones? They should be able to install without the use of caulking(at least in our part of the world)
What is that on the gable of the flat roof? I don’t think tar or roof patch is necessary when torching with gravel stop(flat roof experts can correct me if I’m wrong).Also, are you sure, that tar or roof patch is compatible with torch-on?

Me thinks your roofer got a new caulking gun in his tool box …

just what I noticed…

johne5[/quote]

Whoa… slow down. I am not familiar with what you are talking about on half of those details. Would mind showing me what the issues are and how it should look? I am especially not familiar with the chimney work. AFIK, they did not weld the copper around the chimney.

I was not told about any need for pointing on the chimney. When we purchased the house, the inspector did not mention any need for pointing the chimney. However, the top 20ish rows were removed and rebuilt due to a really bad split.

And yes, they did use new hood vents. I did see them on the ground when they ripped off the old roof. I guess they either went caulk crazy or decided on a little belt and suspender for the roof.

Thanks.

Why in the heck did they caulk the joints in all the shingles behind the chimney and the stove vent and one of your plumbing boots have most definitely been re-used,new ones usually dont have rust on them,lol.

[quote=“DanM”]

[quote=“johne5”]In the pics with the chimney and back pan(or lack there of as mentioned earlier) Why the need for caulking at all the joints of the shingles and around the base of chimney?..
I would further investigate this install…
Are the points cut underneath the valleys?
Are there truly soaker flashing at the chimney? Is the copper welded at the joint where the step flashing meet the back pan(if there are any) or are you relying on caulking? Why no “wings” on the back pan to allow water to shed away from the back corner?
Were you offered or informed that your chimney needs re-pointing?
Why electrical mast flashing (two piece) on the stink pipes instead of leads or 5n1 rubber boots(one piece)?
Caulking around the hooded vents? are they re-used or old ones? They should be able to install without the use of caulking(at least in our part of the world)
What is that on the gable of the flat roof? I don’t think tar or roof patch is necessary when torching with gravel stop(flat roof experts can correct me if I’m wrong).Also, are you sure, that tar or roof patch is compatible with torch-on?

Me thinks your roofer got a new caulking gun in his tool box …

just what I noticed…

johne5[/quote]

Whoa… slow down. I am not familiar with what you are talking about on half of those details. Would mind showing me what the issues are and how it should look? I am especially not familiar with the chimney work. AFIK, they did not weld the copper around the chimney.

I was not told about any need for pointing on the chimney. When we purchased the house, the inspector did not mention any need for pointing the chimney. However, the top 20ish rows were removed and rebuilt due to a really bad split.

And yes, they did use new hood vents. I did see them on the ground when they ripped off the old roof. I guess they either went caulk crazy or decided on a little belt and suspender for the roof.

Thanks.[/quote]

Dan
Sorry, not trying to confuse you , so, hope this works(links and explanations)
smg.photobucket.com/albums/v647/ … 1_0073.jpg
Notice in above picture, the mortar in between the bricks is breaking out and cracking and such, that is why I believe the chimney should be repointed. Not too late to have it done, just make sure your brickie is not sloppy and uses drop clothes to keep new mortar off new roof.
The chimney flashing(on chimney same pic) is what concerns me most. Behind the chimney , on the shingles, note the caulking at every joint where water would run down the roof to the chimney, also where the nice copper counter flashing (although I’m not convinced they are “countering” soaker(back pan and step flashing) flashings) meets the roof line, there is a bead of caulking. If flashed properly( or even flashed at all), this would not be necessary.
Also, right at the leading edge of roof, where it meets the chimney, it doesn’t appear there is a step flashing.
smg.photobucket.com/albums/v647/ … 1_0062.jpg
This picture shows your “new” hooded vents. Click the high res. button on the zoom tab and convince me those aren’t old and rusty. Same pic, the flashing around the plumbing stack, AKA stink pipe, is a two-piece, electrical mast (the pole ,with wires, to the Hydro pole on the street) flashing. Should have been a pitched lead flashing, or Otie or 5n1 rubber flashing.
Same pic, notice the Bakor roof patch that has been troweled on down the gable of the flat roof. Is this a torch-on roof ? I believe that should have been Hal board, base sheet torched, gravel stop(gable flashing) stripped, and then capsheet. (again, not a torch guy but i beleive that to be the proper order).
Hope this answered some of the questions you had, Dan.

…wish I was getting piece rate on the parenthesis’.

Nite
johne5

John I like the metal edging to go over the cap sheet.

This roofer is going to show up and be like what the hell are you talking about. Maybe the dont make those kind of hooded vents in his area anymore. I just had to reuse two on the last job because they dont make them and you have to special order them and the I informed the condo association that it will cost a good amount extra for all your units just to have that done. Also, no one else has used cut 3 tab shingles for cap around here? The only thing I might be concerned about is the back of the chimney but if it never leaked before it shouldnt now.

Reading some posts on here latley makes me feel like a hack.

[quote=“johne5”]

Whoa… slow down. I am not familiar with what you are talking about on half of those details. Would mind showing me what the issues are and how it should look? I am especially not familiar with the chimney work. AFIK, they did not weld the copper around the chimney.

I was not told about any need for pointing on the chimney. When we purchased the house, the inspector did not mention any need for pointing the chimney. However, the top 20ish rows were removed and rebuilt due to a really bad split.

And yes, they did use new hood vents. I did see them on the ground when they ripped off the old roof. I guess they either went caulk crazy or decided on a little belt and suspender for the roof.

Thanks.

Dan
Sorry, not trying to confuse you , so, hope this works(links and explanations)
smg.photobucket.com/albums/v647/ … 1_0073.jpg
Notice in above picture, the mortar in between the bricks is breaking out and cracking and such, that is why I believe the chimney should be repointed. Not too late to have it done, just make sure your brickie is not sloppy and uses drop clothes to keep new mortar off new roof.
The chimney flashing(on chimney same pic) is what concerns me most. Behind the chimney , on the shingles, note the caulking at every joint where water would run down the roof to the chimney, also where the nice copper counter flashing (although I’m not convinced they are “countering” soaker(back pan and step flashing) flashings) meets the roof line, there is a bead of caulking. If flashed properly( or even flashed at all), this would not be necessary.
Also, right at the leading edge of roof, where it meets the chimney, it doesn’t appear there is a step flashing.
smg.photobucket.com/albums/v647/ … 1_0062.jpg
This picture shows your “new” hooded vents. Click the high res. button on the zoom tab and convince me those aren’t old and rusty. Same pic, the flashing around the plumbing stack, AKA stink pipe, is a two-piece, electrical mast (the pole ,with wires, to the Hydro pole on the street) flashing. Should have been a pitched lead flashing, or Otie or 5n1 rubber flashing.
Same pic, notice the Bakor roof patch that has been troweled on down the gable of the flat roof. Is this a torch-on roof ? I believe that should have been Hal board, base sheet torched, gravel stop(gable flashing) stripped, and then capsheet. (again, not a torch guy but i beleive that to be the proper order).
Hope this answered some of the questions you had, Dan.

…wish I was getting piece rate on the parenthesis’.

Nite
johne5[/quote]

I really appreciate the details. I think I understand most of it. Pictures of a properly done Chimney would help. I will try to get more detailed pictures of the flashing for you.

You are correct. The hooded vents are original material. I thought you were referring to the the vent pipes.

The roof is TAMKO Heritage 30 in Slatetone Grey

One more time this morning. I have added some more detailed shots of the flashing from the sides and of the vent boots. I took a closer look at the box vents. They are rusty, but very strong. I would dare say it is probaby sturdier than the vent they just put up there for a new bathroom fan. Is there a reason it has to be replaced with the roof? If it is still sound, I have no problem reusing it. A little rustoleum should fix the problem. The link again is
smg.photobucket.com/albums/v647/DanMages/Roof/

Dan

Not sure about all the caulking at penetrations. Seems unneccesary.

I have seen chimney flashing like that work. On a 29 year old 14/12 pitch even. Got to believe water was crashing violently into the back of that thing. As long as its extended 10" or so up the roof it will likely be ok. Of course, as Dennis said, saddle is better.

Bam, I doubt you are a hack. There is a perfect roofing world and there is running a business in reality. Sometimes customers won’t pay for exactly what I think is best but the family has got to eat.

[quote=“shangle nailer”]Not sure about all the caulking at penetrations. Seems unneccesary.

I have seen chimney flashing like that work. On a 29 year old 14/12 pitch even. Got to believe water was crashing violently into the back of that thing. As long as its extended 10" or so up the roof it will likely be ok. Of course, as Dennis said, saddle is better.

Bam, I doubt you are a hack. There is a perfect roofing world and there is running a business in reality. Sometimes customers won’t pay for exactly what I think is best but the family has got to eat.[/quote]

I beg to disagree. I would be willing to pay an extra 10-20% for the absolute best. The biggest issue is that as a layman, I don’t know what makes a perfect job or how to find someone who is able to give me a perfect job. In this case, I found someone who does a good job and has a good reputation.

How long has the company been in business and whats your workmanship warranty?

I think your roof will be fine. Not done to the highest standards but most aren’t. Most of the roofers on this forum take pride in their work and consider themselves the best. Why else would someone work all day and spend time off work discussing roofing.

[quote=“DanM”]

[quote=“shangle nailer”]Not sure about all the caulking at penetrations. Seems unneccesary.

I have seen chimney flashing like that work. On a 29 year old 14/12 pitch even. Got to believe water was crashing violently into the back of that thing. As long as its extended 10" or so up the roof it will likely be ok. Of course, as Dennis said, saddle is better.

Bam, I doubt you are a hack. There is a perfect roofing world and there is running a business in reality. Sometimes customers won’t pay for exactly what I think is best but the family has got to eat.[/quote]

I beg to disagree. I would be willing to pay an extra 10-20% for the absolute best. The biggest issue is that as a layman, I don’t know what makes a perfect job or how to find someone who is able to give me a perfect job. In this case, I found someone who does a good job and has a good reputation.[/quote]

Dan, but I tend to agree with nailer…not everyone is willing to pay the premium to get everything done right. I have had many lost customers due to a cheaper quote. I have driven by after the fact and can see why it was a cheaper quote. All I can do is inform the customer of the ideal way to do their roof, and then adjust as needed when someone is looking for a cheaper price. Plywooding shiplap decks is a prime example, so now I will go over shiplap, but just modify my warranty (from 10 to 5 yr) when the customer does not want the instal up to manufacturer specs. I had to do this, because I was losing too much work, so I can relate, on a practical side of things, sometimes you have to just keep the crew working and pay our bills…and if there is any leftover, maybe give ourselves a paycheque.

johne5

selfemployedslave

The roof comes with 5 years of workmanship. They have been in the community for 6 years now.

Johne5… You are preaching to the choir. Maybe what you should do is put together a photo album of subquality work vs top quality work and use it to educate customers what happens when you use the cheapest quote and the damage they will cause. Most consumers don’t know what goes into a good roof job. By showing your standards for quality, you might win more customers.

I actually have the same problem as a pastry chef. I make everything from scratch using the best ingredients. I am probably 30-50% more expensive than the crap you get the grocery store, but the people who eat my food rave over it. In fact, I gave the roofing company owner a small cup of ice cream. When he come to collect the cheque, he asked if it would be possible to get more from me.

I am going to call the city’s building dept and ask for an inspector to review the issues brought up with the roof to see if they need to be corrected. It is more likely to be fixed if it came from an inspector instead of me.

Dan