Tile roof install questions\issues

Hi New user to the forum, hoping to get some feedback from someone familiar with Tile Roof installs. i have a couple questions question on a new Concrete tile roof install. Recently my daughter had a new concrete tile roof installed and is questioning a few things that look odd to her. She’s in Florida and I’m in Chicago so trying to give her some advice by looking at the photos. While i do residential rehabs back here in illinois I’m not that familiar with tile roofs.

The first issue was how two valleys were finished off on a gable at front of house. There is an excessive amount of metal exposed and is very visible, she sent me some photos and it appears that the tiles on the cable portion are not lined up with the portion of roof that forms the valley.

Second issue is the tile that they used to cover the hips and ridges sit very high making the the roof look a little odd, There appears to be an excessive amount of mortar install to fill the cap between the hip and ridge tiles and the field tiles. Is it possible they did not use the correct material that the the hip and ridge tiles sit on?

Some details on the Tile used, mfg:Eagle roofing. Malibu line( not a high barrel tile)

I can only include a single photo so it will only show one side of the cable valley issue and a little peak at one of the ridges, not a great example of the ridge tile. Possibly i will need to create a second post or something, not sure how to get around the one photo rule.

Update: try this link for photos: Kristins Roof - Google Drive

You can use imgur.com to post photos.

It is a pretty ragged valley cut but metal showing won’t hurt anything. Some roofers run open valleys. Tile courses should line up for cosmetic reasons but is hard to pull off sometimes with such a short run on the dormer side without a really short course on ridge. They used a bed and point style mortar on the ridge. It’s not necessarily wrong just doesn’t look good on this tile and they went heavy with it. They weren’t cutting corners with the mortar, this is much more time consuming and takes a lot more mud. At least they colored it. I am curious what they did on gable end. Hard to see in this picture.

Tillman, thanks for the feedback, I also included the google folder link with additional photos, did this work for you. My thought was they should have started the first tile on the gable closer to bottom edge of metal, thus leaving less metal exposed. I can have a better picture of the front of gable taken if that helps.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1j9R1bL9OOkKZWjAe_RwrJY9ZBQpBTmRi

The first tile along the right side of the valley should not be mortared closed. That is at the bottom of the drainage plan and it is now blocked.

The first tile along the left side of the valley needs to be notched open and something other than a pair of salad tongs should be used as it was in the picture.

And, as Tileman said, the gable end rake detail is an abomination. Using drip edge by itself and some tucking / pointing with mortar is not anywhere in the installation specs for this product. There is a specific detail and tile products to be used.

Keepitlow, Thanks for the reply, if your refering to the original photo i posted, i don’t believe the right tile is mortared closed, there is the pre made metal bird stops at the bottom edge of first tile on right side of valley. This photo may help. I’m not following the salad tongs comment what exactly do you mean?

Keep it Low is correct and it’s a shame because it doesn’t seem to be a matter of cutting corners to save money. You can never put mortar in valleys or use as closures on wall/gable end details. It is too porous and one crack will let water in that can’t get out. Tile roofs need to have continuity under the tile for water to exit into the gutter unhindered. This is why our area now requires elevated battens. It looks to me like a job done by a person with limited knowledge of tile but someone that had good intentions. From the pictures it looks like they spent a LOT of time on that mortar and it’s nice and smooth, not easy to do.

I can’t imagine how many man hours it took to do all the mortar work.

Hard to figure that into a job MPA. They must have used about 4 pallets of mud and 50 pounds of color

The metal bird stop shouldn’t block the bottom of the valleys.

The “salad tongs” comment refers to the terrible tile cutting work, as if that is what was used in lieu of proper equipment and making a nice cut.

I cringe at the labor when we need a 20th that amount on a big job. Looks like that brought in a tow behind mixer. But I they did do a really nice job.

Maybe that’s how they do it in Florida? Ask your daughter to walk the neighbourhood and look at the rake detail.
Every shingle detail is different there I wouldn’t be surprised if tile was the same

Thanks everyone for the replies and comments. Since i’m remote i decided to to pay someone that works in the roofing industry perform an inspection of the roofing work and give me a report I think as patchy stated some of this is how things may be done in Florida. Any recommendations on how to describe to the roofing contractor how that gable tile should be installed.

Here is a photo of the left Valley on that same Gable:

Looking at the pictures from Eagle’s own web-site, I see gable end rakes with trim accessory tile AND is see a picture of a gable end rake with mortar pointing the way the house in question is done.

So, maybe Eagle is OK with this type of installation.

Who knows?

Normally I would be concerned with any obstruction at the bottom of valley but in this case I don’t think water has anywhere to cause damage. I just wish they would at least have rounded or angle cut bottom of mortar. It’s a sickness with some of us with these minor details. We round all of our exposed metal ends. I KNOW many of you relate!