Can I put composite roofing material directly onto 1 x 6 tongue and groove roof decking. This is for a gazebo.
Hey Brian, Yes you can. I would say to use a 7/8" - 1" nail if you are not wanting to see it from below. It’s very common for us to see 1x6 t & G and shiplap on the older homes, into the 80’s. Open soffit homes will normally have t & G and we use a short nail. If you put a good underlayment, you should have no problems.
Side note: If you are hand nailing, you will be nursing bruised fingers from hitting them, while holding that short nail.
If you are asking if you can put shingles directly on the deck, without underlayment,…yes you can. It’s always advisable to put underlayment to keep the shingles from sticking to the deck. It also helps bridge for a smoother finish. Warranty from the manufacture may vary, but most will require it. I have the certainteed installers folder, behind me on the shelf. I will quote from the 2000 installers handbook.
Quote: Shingle underlayment: Page 58, The installation of standard underlayment beneath shingles is required by many shingle manufacturers. Generally , Certainteed recommends that underlayment be installed, but does not require it except as noted below. Low slopes, Valleys and cold weather climates.
(yes i was a certified installer until I realized it was a waste of money and time and that I had to honor not talking bad about their product or warranty) I’m not loyal to any manufacture.
EDIT: I had one more item to add. Underlayment had a purpose other than drying the home in before the shingles. Before the 90’s, some shingles didn’t carry a fire rating. The underlayment gave the shingle fire ratings. Also, back when #3 and general purpose plank decking was used for homes, installing asphalt shingles to the deck would have sap and bleed from the wood, causing shingle failure and a really angry roofer who had to try and tear that stuff off. Most guys now have never had to tear off a roof that was put straight to deck. I have. It’s a pain in the AOC.
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Thanks for the info. I will use the 1 x 6 T & G as my decking and use the 16 ga nails (w/nail gun) into the studs. Forgot to mention I also have my studs on 16" centers so I think the span is short enough to not give me any flexing issue if I walk on if needed. The composite shingles you are saying use a 7/8 to 1" nail length so it does not show underneath correct?
You are correct. Sounds like your On center 16" and decking should be a nice system. Check your nails as you go. You should be fine. Shingles will have double thickness as you hit the headlap and the nail line. Don’t put too much thought in to it. You’re on the right track.
One other thing. When you go to buy 1" or 7/8" nails, you are going to see they are probably ring shanked and Hot Dipped. It’s an expensive nail. If you have a nail store, see about buying them by the coil if the project is small.
Thanks I appreciate the input.
Brian
Damn, I love learning new stuff on here Rooferama. Roofers also curse the guy who installs shingles directly over ice/water shield. Break out the spudding bars.
Composite roofing is not water-proof.
You need to install an underlayment.
Install self-adhered underlayment.
Experiment and use a nail that wont penetrate all the way through.
Or you only see a small number of tips barely poking through
And When you say Composite, i am thinking some weird plastics/vinyl of some kind.
If you are meaning standard Architect shingles,
Than the one inch hot-dipped nails will work nicely and barely poke though
Also the self-adhered underlayment wouldnt be necessary unless it is low-pitch.
Under a 5/12 pitch.
Thx for the info.
I am installing 3/4 x 5-1/4 T&G boards on the roof studs on top of the structure. This is a structure that will be outside with no walls. When nailing the T&G boards I see a lot of videos saying you need to nail at the tongue…if you will not see the top of the boards (since they are facing up to the sky do I need to still nail at the tongue or can I simply make sure the joint is tight and just nail into the studs on the top surface of the boards? Seems the nailing at the tongue is so you don’t see the nails but you wont see them since they are on top of roof.
Other question is once the T&G boards are down do I need a water barrier prior to putting the composite shingles down. These are just your standard shingles that are on most houses here in California.
Any info would be great
BH
Thx for the info.
I am installing 3/4 x 5-1/4 T&G boards on the roof studs on top of the structure. This is a structure that will be outside with no walls. When nailing the T&G boards I see a lot of videos saying you need to nail at the tongue…if you will not see the top of the boards (since they are facing up to the sky do I need to still nail at the tongue or can I simply make sure the joint is tight and just nail into the studs on the top surface of the boards? Seems the nailing at the tongue is so you don’t see the nails but you wont see them since they are on top of roof.
Other question is once the T&G boards are down do I need a water barrier prior to putting the composite shingles down. These are just your standard shingles that are on most houses here in California.
Any info would be great
BH
Face nailing is fine and use of an underlayment is always a good idea. Nail the underlay at the rafters to reduce the chance of the points showing through
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Since I have a hip style roof with a 31" ridge board and (4) end beams between each of the (4) ridges coming to the corners, with all the T&G overhanging about 2 feet would you cut the angle on center of corner beams with a skill saw? Would you place all the boards on one side and cut the overhang all at the end or would you cut a couple boards at a time?
I also have to cut the ends so they don’t interfere with the next side of the roof.
As you see in the image I will finish one side with an overhang of boards then I need to do the next side without hitting the cut boards from the previous side.
Myself I’d sheet the 2 larger sides first, letting the boards go past the hips then cutting all at once using a skillsaw and chalkline. Then the rest will need to be cut to fit as you go up the roof using either an offcut as a template or a mitre saw set to whatever the correct angle is.
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Sounds Good I appreciate the feedback
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Another reason to use self adhered underlayment on this is so you dont have to worry about the underlayment fasteners poking through the bottom.
I pay 61 dollars a roll retail and it covers 200 sq feet.
you dont need to nail the 1x6 TG from the top.
That is old school way to assure the boards are kept in their groove.
Use todays proper fasteners and this is not a problem
It needs 2 ring shank 8 penny nails.
From a framing/sheeting gun.
Approx 1inch from the top and the bottom.
Doesnt have to be exact.
Keep the trigger pulled
As fast as you can bounce the gun
Pow pow.
I respect you greatly rooferman and i mean no disrespect.
I think you just answered too quickly and didnt think it through.
Yes, that would be the fastest procedure while installing 4x8 sheets.
You barely hand nail them to keep them in place.
Cut the boards along the hip rafter, then nail all
The boards properly with a nail gun.
But installing 1x6 tongue and groove is different.
Every piece needs to be cut and nailed competely as you go.
You can nail it first or cut it first
But each piece needs to be completed as you go from side to side, hip rafter to hip rafter before you move up to the next piece.
Complete one side, then go to the next.
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Old school with boards is to butt to the inside of the rafter and use the outside of the rafter closest to the end as your saw guide. The best advice I ae is to cull any board with splits, wanes, or large knots.
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