What does this mean in reference to a valley? Blind Sealed Valley?

“If valley is blind sealed a 4” wide 1/8” thick of ASTM 4586 roofing cement will be centered under the nail line or Surenail tape of the bleeder shingle.”

Here is a picture of the valley of my roof.

And a closeup of the Valley

The roofer put cement down the valley, right at the sure nail strip of duration. Then nailed the bleeder shingle down. That’s the valley shingle under the field shingle you have in your hand. 9 out of 10 roofers wouldn’t do it, so kudos to him.

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Yes he did but it appears as if he ran the valley backwards. Hard to be 100% sure from the picture since it doesn’t show the ridge line but it looks like high side was run first with cut side facing uphill?

I didnt even look at it that close but it could be run long on the low side. Not to pick on the roofer, but not only is Tileman right on cut side wrong, but I don’t put my valley line in the middle. I pop a line from an inch out at the top and at the bottom I’m probably 3 or 4 inches out of the valley at the bottom.

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I think if he sealed it like he said it probably wouldn’t be a big deal though. I’m just a nit picker and wrong a lot!

Here are a few more pictures showing the ridge cap. Hope this helps. There was NO Roof Cement used in this valley or anywhere else in the roof. They are telling me that a good roof does not need roof cement.

It is my opinion that roof cement should have been used. Would you have used roof cement? This is in NW Ohio.

No, roof cement isn’t necessary in those valleys and i see nothing to be alarmed about. In fact looks like a much better quality job than usually gets posted on here.

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This roof does have a lot of issues with the Offsets being as little as 2" and the exposures not at 5-5/8". I found several places where I can see a nail head between two shingles. You can see in the bottom picture toward the end of the roof that the shingles curve to the right.

What would an inspector say about that?

Curve, no big deal, only visual from the roof.

How far off 5 5/8 are we talking? Less is a non issue but any more than an 1/8 or so bigger can start to cause problems.

How many nail heads? They are a super easy fix and low nails are an indicator that the installer was at least trying to nail in the proper location (not too high, which is worse than too low).

The 2’’ offsets are a real problem though!

Exposure is 1/4" more in a few places. Offset is around 4" or 4-1/2" in many places. Of course where they are off it is almost the whole row. OC says for this shingle the offset should be 6-1/2".

Those are durrations right? If so from my understanding they are recommending 6 1/2 staggers but also say

“Caution must be exercised to assure that end joints are no closer than 2 inches from fastener in the shingle belowand that side laps are no less than 4 inches in succeeding
courses.” So i take that 4’’ is their smallest allowed stagger. Check the bottom of page 3

Yes Duration. And I saw that too. There are many issues with this roof that are unacceptable.

None of the installers read these directions and now I am holding the company to them.

The paragraph above states “Application with offsets of 4 inches or 8 inches are also acceptable.”. Not 5-1/2", not 6", it is either 6-1/2", 4" or 8".

Right?

So back to the nail being 2" from an end joint? I want to make sure I understand this correctly. Any place I lift up a shingle end I should not see a nail holding down the shingle below closer than 2" from the end joint above. Correct?

Your nail in the end joint understanding is correct. But your shingle offset understanding isn’t. Anything with a minimum of 4" is acceptable. With that said, i don’t do staggers any less than 6" myself.

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Is the nail zone cloth covered with the words sure nail? or just a shiny black area.

Any stagger between 5 1/2 and 8 is fine, nails should not be close to joints.
4" wont leak, but is a little hacky.

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Get caulking gun and use it on every nail you caught between shingles ,they will rust and make decking rot couple feet around nail on walkers if felt,on ice guard it’s usually just nail itself and decking stays tight smh.
To find possible spots you should start from the bottom of each side and follow shingle steps,usually pipes,vents or any other penetration screws pattern and you will have shingles overlapping bottom shingle so that’s where you most likely catch those nails because when you nail you used to certain pattern and when you work fast you might forget first couple shingles that your stair is broken and need to nail differently to avoid nails close to seams.