You want your shingles laying flat?

You need to install your underlayment flat.
Many are installing synthetic underlayment.
It must be stretched horizontally and vertically before nailing it.
No wrinkles.
This is how it should look 2-ply

Todays work!

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Wend, May 18th 9:30 am

You can see how flat the underlayment is from this angle too.

38 sq.
Architect shingles removed yesterday (tuesday)
About 8 sheets used.
Probably 20 rotten spots replaced.
Homeowner didnt think they had any leaks.
Every sheet of plywood renailed with 8d ring shank nails every 6 inches.
Installed 2 ply synthetic
And completely water-tight over-night.
All flashings were cemented under and over.
Here is some wood work photos

If you look through the window,
You see that we took the time and effort to replace the wood ALL the way under the front dormer.
It took the whole crew working togther to get the whole un-cut sheet under it.
4 men besides me did all this.

Also you can see where we replaced the wood with an un-cut sheet and went ALL the way under the rake and valley.
Our underlayment and shingles go all the way under it also.

Wend 7:45 pm photos

Homeowner cant shove the check in my hand fast enough.
Wanting to please me.
He is happy for me to have his sign in the yard.
He feels like he owes me.
He wants to tell his family and friends about me.
Because i did exactly what i said i would do and more.
Woodwork included in the price.
He sees all this woodwork and is amazed and appreciative.
He then leaves me a trail of surrounding customers that will far out pay any wood bill i could present to him.

Did you re-use all the existing steps and roof to wall?

No one uses steps here on any walls for shingle roofing.
Never have.
Sometimes a skylight.
But 99% not.

roof accessories are made of 26 guage flashing. Thicker for skylights.
All walls are preflashed with 26g stick flashing.
And last the life of the structure if water doesnt get trapped and rust it out.
If any of the old flashing has rusted or damaged then we would apply flashing on the outside of the brick or stucco and install a counter-flashing.

There were only leaks at the bottom of almost every valley and bottom corner.
Just about every one.
The previous roofers didnt know how to connect these critical intersections.

But no leaks at any of the numerous walls
that had been roof cemented under and over.
We were/are very successful in removing the old roofing cement from the flashing without damaging it.
We strive to keep the siding undamaged too.
I dont even want to see fingerprints…

Totally different world. I’d have to be completely retrained if I tried to roof in Florida.


This is showing the cementing of the valley.
Cementing the low side of the valley.
An inspector will give you a hard time if the cement is not close enough to the valley line.
I think the cementing should only be under where we drive the roofing nails.
But they want the cement almost all the way to the center of the valley to account for wind uplift.

No city or manufacturer asks for this but my men also cement both sides of the valley metal BEFORE they install any shingles.
In this photo you can can see it squirting out from under the shingles on the left side.

If you have misplaced your trowel to apply the roof cement, a 4 inch quarter-round, cut out of the top of a shingle is a great applicator.
Shown in this photo.

To prevent wind uplift you would need to tar the bottom and top of the bleeder shingle in the valley, or do a standard closed cut valley.

Yes, Once an inspector made us also tar the corners of the field shingles that touch the bleeder shingle because the shingle tar strip doesnt touch there.

Also, roofing cement has to be applied in exactly the same manner regardless of valley installation style.
Closed cut or bleeder closed cut.

I think I am one of the few in my area that does use plastic cement in the valleys, I don’t use as much as you do though.

Yeah, No roofing cement is required to water-tight a valley.
It is there to meet the inspectors code/for
“extra” wind lift protection.

I do like to cement the fasteners of the bottom row or two in the valley.

Looks good! Were the leaks pretty bad?